🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.